This distinctive linen and Merino wool blend combines a substantial 350 GSM weight with an exceptionally fluid drape and richly dimensional moss-textured surface.

Woven in a jacquard construction over a twill base, the fabric features irregular raised floats that create a softly pebbled, heathered appearance. The texture feels organic and tactile rather than overtly patterned, giving the cloth visual depth while preserving a refined, contemporary character.

The linen base contributes strength, breathability, and a naturally dry touch, while the Merino wool adds softness, warmth, and graceful movement. Together, the fibres create a heavyweight fabric that feels luxurious and substantial without becoming rigid.

Supplied in a white RFD finish, this fabric provides a versatile foundation for couture garments, eveningwear, shawls, statement jackets, and carefully controlled dyeing projects.

HOW THE FABRIC IS MADE

This fabric is woven using linen and Merino wool yarns in a jacquard twill-base construction.

The twill foundation provides stability and strength, while selected yarns float across the surface in varying repeats to create the raised moss-like texture.

These floats range from approximately three to seven yarns in length, producing irregular areas of texture that catch light differently across the cloth.

The dimensional effect is woven directly into the fabric. It is not printed, embossed, coated, or applied with adhesive.

WHAT IS A MOSS-TEXTURED JACQUARD?

“Moss texture” refers to the softly irregular, clustered surface created by raised woven floats.

Unlike a formal floral or geometric jacquard, this pattern has a more organic visual rhythm. The raised areas resemble small patches of moss or softly pebbled growth across the surface.

The texture creates:

• Subtle highlights and shadows

• A gently heathered appearance

• Dimensional depth

• A soft, bumpy handfeel

• Rich visual movement in draped garments

The exact placement and height of the raised texture may vary slightly throughout the yardage.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Fabric: Linen and Merino Wool Moss Jacquard

Composition: Linen base with Merino wool blend

Exact Fibre Percentages: Not provided

Construction: Jacquard with twill foundation

Surface Structure: Moss-textured floats

Float Repeats: Approximately 3–7 yarns

Yarn Count: Approximately 40s × 30s Ne

Thread Density: Approximately 130 × 95

Width: Approximately 48 inches / 122 cm

Weight: Approximately 350 GSM

Weight Class: Heavyweight

Colour: White

Finish: RFD / Ready for Dyeing

Surface: Raised, heathered, and softly irregular

Handfeel: Soft, silky, and gently bumpy

Drape: Extremely fluid for its weight

Opacity: Fully opaque

Stretch: None; stable woven construction

End-Use Category: Couture apparel, eveningwear, luxury layers, and decorative textiles

UNDERSTANDING THE CONSTRUCTION

40s × 30s Ne refers to the approximate yarn counts used across the warp and weft directions.

The finer yarn contributes stability and surface definition, while the comparatively fuller yarn helps build body and texture.

130 × 95 refers to the approximate warp and weft thread density. The closely set foundation supports the substantial 350 GSM weight and provides a stable base for the longer decorative floats.

The twill ground encourages graceful movement, while the jacquard mechanism controls which yarns rise to form the moss-like relief.

HANDFEEL AND DRAPE

Handfeel: Soft, silky, and naturally tactile

Surface: Heathered with raised moss-like texture

Base Touch: Dry and refined from the linen

Softness: Tempered by fine Merino wool

Body: Heavy and substantial

Drape: Exceptionally fluid and graceful

Movement: Rich, sweeping, and responsive

Opacity: Fully opaque

Despite its weight, the fabric falls into deep, elegant folds rather than holding a rigid silhouette. It is particularly effective in garments where movement and surface texture are equally important.

The raised floats give the face a bumpy, dimensional touch, while the reverse may appear smoother and more structured.

IDEAL USES

• Couture gowns

• Evening dresses

• Structured draped dresses

• Statement skirts

• Capes and cloaks

• Luxury shawls and wraps

• Statement jackets

• Kimono-style layers

• Unstructured coats

• Vests and waistcoats

• Bridal separates

• Sculptural sleeves and panels

• Luxury bags and accessories

• Decorative cushions

• Wall panels and textile artwork

• Refined interior accents

• Runway and editorial garments

This fabric is particularly suited to clean silhouettes that allow its texture and fluid weight to remain visible.

RFD AND DYEING INFORMATION

RFD means “Ready for Dyeing.”

The white fabric is supplied as a base for additional colour processing. However, linen and Merino wool belong to different fibre groups and may absorb dyes differently.

Linen is a cellulose fibre, while Merino wool is a protein fibre. A dye system suitable for one component may not colour the other to the same depth.

This can produce:

• Heathered colour

• Tonal variation

• Two-tone effects

• Differential dye absorption

• Variations between raised and recessed areas

These effects may be desirable, but they must be tested before processing the full fabric.

DYEING RECOMMENDATIONS

• Confirm the precise fibre percentages before developing a dye recipe

• Test the chosen dye system on a measured swatch

• Determine whether additional scouring is required

• Avoid high alkalinity that may damage the wool component

• Avoid excessive heat and agitation

• Consider the different dye requirements of linen and wool

• Record dye concentration, temperature, pH, and processing time

• Test colourfastness after dyeing

• Test for shrinkage, felting, and dimensional change

• Evaluate the dry swatch before treating the full yardage

Natural dyeing is possible, but mordants and pH must be selected carefully for the mixed composition. Professional dye consultation is recommended for large or valuable projects.

PATTERN PLACEMENT

The direction of the moss-textured floats should be considered before cutting.

• Examine the surface under natural light

• Keep all pieces oriented consistently

• Centre prominent texture where desired

• Avoid placing long floats directly in high-friction areas

• Cut in a single layer for precise placement

• Allow additional fabric for motif balancing

• Avoid rotating pieces purely to conserve yardage

The fabric’s 48-inch width should also be considered when calculating requirements for full skirts, gowns, capes, and other large pattern pieces.

SEWING RECOMMENDATIONS

• Pre-treat or professionally steam a measured swatch before cutting

• Allow the fabric to rest flat before placing pattern pieces

• Use sharp dressmaking shears or a rotary cutter

• Use a fresh universal or sharp needle suitable for substantial fabric

• Test a size 80/12 or 90/14 needle

• Use strong, high-quality thread

• Select a medium stitch length after testing

• Stay-stitch curved and bias-cut edges

• Secure long floats where cutting passes through textured areas

• Keep prominent floats away from seam allowances where possible

• Finish raw edges with binding, overlocking, or lining

• Grade bulky seam allowances

• Use a walking foot if the layers shift

• Test interfacing carefully before applying

• Press from the reverse side

• Place a thick towel beneath the face to protect the raised texture

• Always use a pressing cloth

For couture garments, hand finishing and a full lining may provide the cleanest result.

LINING RECOMMENDATIONS

A lining is recommended for most garments to protect the reverse construction and improve comfort.

Suitable options include:

• Silk habotai

• Cupro or Bemberg

• Viscose lining

• Lightweight cotton sateen

• Fine wool or wool-blend lining for additional warmth

The lining should have a compatible drape so that it does not restrict the movement of the outer fabric.

PRESSING AND STEAMING

• Press from the reverse side whenever possible

• Use a pressing cloth

• Place a towel beneath the textured surface

• Apply gentle steam

• Avoid sliding the iron

• Do not press heavily on the raised floats

• Use low-to-moderate heat after testing

• Allow the fabric to cool before moving it

Excessive pressure may flatten the moss texture or create shine marks on the raised areas.

WASH AND CARE

Professional dry cleaning is recommended for the best preservation of the mixed fibres, dimensional texture, and fluid drape.

• Do not machine wash

• Do not tumble dry

• Do not bleach

• Do not soak

• Avoid agitation

• Do not wring or twist

• Steam gently to refresh

• Iron from the reverse side

• Always use a pressing cloth

• Store clean and completely dry

• Protect from moths

• Avoid prolonged compression of the textured face

If home washing is being considered, test a measured swatch first. Heat, moisture, and agitation may cause the Merino wool to shrink or felt while also affecting the linen structure.

SURFACE CARE

The longer jacquard floats require gentle handling.

• Avoid contact with jewellery and rough objects

• Keep away from hook-and-loop fasteners

• Do not pull visible floats

• Avoid using the fabric in high-friction areas

• Store with tissue between folded layers

• Repair any snagged float carefully rather than cutting it

The fabric is best suited to occasionwear and considered garments rather than demanding utility use.

PLEASE NOTE

• Exact linen and Merino wool percentages have not been provided

• Confirm composition if required for garment labelling or dye development

• The fabric is heavyweight but highly fluid

• It has no elastane and no mechanical stretch

• The raised floats may snag if handled roughly

• RFD does not guarantee identical dye uptake across the two fibres

• Differential dyeing and heathered effects should be expected

• Heat and agitation may shrink or felt the wool component

• Minor variations in texture, float length, width, and surface appearance may occur

• Separate production batches may vary slightly

• Purchase sufficient fabric for the complete project in one order when exact matching is important

We recommend ordering a swatch before purchasing larger quantities when exact whiteness, composition, weight, texture, drape, or dyeing behaviour is important.