A commanding yak wool herringbone tweed in deep charcoal grey, combining natural warmth with added structure and durability.

At approximately 380 GSM, this is a true heavyweight fabric—dense, warm, and substantial, with the body required for coats, jackets, tailored outerwear, and winter garments.

The composition is 80% wool and 20% recycled polyester (rPET). The wool provides insulation, breathability, and a softly textured surface, while the recycled polyester improves dimensional stability, shape retention, and resistance to everyday wear.

Its classic herringbone weave gives the surface a restrained broken-chevron pattern, adding visual depth without making the cloth feel overly decorative. The charcoal grey colour and softly brushed finish give it a clean, heritage-minded appearance with a contemporary tailoring character.

Important: The specifications provided state 80% wool and 20% recycled polyester. This description therefore does not include the earlier 70% yak wool and 30% cotton claim. Only describe the wool specifically as “yak wool” if this is confirmed by your supplier or fibre testing.

HOW THE FABRIC IS MADE

This fabric is woven in a traditional herringbone structure.

Herringbone is a broken twill weave in which the direction of the diagonal rib reverses at regular intervals. These alternating directions form the distinctive chevron-like pattern visible across the surface.

The wool-rich yarns provide warmth and a gently lofty texture, while the recycled polyester component supports the structure and helps the finished fabric retain its shape.

After weaving, the cloth is lightly milled and brushed. This softens the woollen surface while preserving the definition of the herringbone pattern and the stability required for tailoring.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Fabric: Wool-Rich Herringbone Tweed

Composition: 80% wool and 20% recycled polyester (rPET)

Construction: Woven herringbone tweed

Width: Approximately 58 inches / 147 cm

Weight: Approximately 380 GSM

Weight Class: Heavyweight

Colour: Charcoal grey

Pattern: Woven herringbone / broken twill

Finish: Lightly milled and brushed

Surface: Defined herringbone with a softened woollen face

Handfeel: Warm, dense, and substantial

Drape: Firm and structured

Opacity: Fully opaque

Stretch: None; stable woven construction

Warmth: High

End-Use Category: Tailored outerwear, winter clothing, accessories, and interior accents

HANDFEEL AND DRAPE

Handfeel: Warm, dense, and softly woollen

Surface: Lightly brushed with visible herringbone definition

Body: Heavy and substantial

Drape: Structured and architectural

Movement: Controlled rather than fluid

Warmth: Suitable for cold-weather garments

Stability: Good shape retention with limited stretch

The fabric holds clean seams, defined shoulders, substantial collars, and tailored silhouettes beautifully. It feels more controlled and shape-holding than a loosely woven pure wool tweed.

Its substantial weight makes it best suited to garments and projects where warmth and structure are intentional features.

ABOUT THE RECYCLED POLYESTER CONTENT

The 20% recycled polyester component is included to improve the fabric’s practical performance.

It contributes:

• Greater dimensional stability

• Improved shape retention

• Added resistance to abrasion

• Reduced stretching or sagging

• Cleaner tailoring lines

• Increased durability in frequently worn garments

The cloth remains wool-rich in character, but it should not be described as pure wool, pure yak wool, or a natural-fibre-only fabric.

IDEAL USES

• Overcoats and winter coats

• Tailored jackets

• Structured blazers

• Peacoats

• Heavy overshirts and shackets

• Vests and waistcoats

• Winter trousers

• Structured skirts and overskirts

• Capes and cloaks

• Heritage-inspired outerwear

• Caps and winter accessories

• Bags and structured textile accessories

• Cushion covers

• Decorative throws

• Durable interior accents

This fabric has no mechanical stretch and is not suitable for patterns that depend on elasticity.

LINING RECOMMENDATIONS

A lining is strongly recommended for coats, jackets, trousers, skirts, and other fitted garments.

Suitable options include:

• Cupro or Bemberg

• Viscose lining

• Cotton sateen

• Lightweight flannel for added warmth

• Quilted lining for winter outerwear

A lining creates a smoother interior, protects the seams, improves comfort, and helps the garment slide easily over other clothing.

SEWING RECOMMENDATIONS

• Professionally pre-shrink or steam-treat a swatch before cutting

• Allow the fabric to rest flat before positioning pattern pieces

• Keep the herringbone direction consistent across all pieces

• Match the pattern at centre fronts and prominent seams where possible

• Allow additional yardage for pattern matching

• Use sharp tailor’s shears or a rotary cutter

• Use a fresh needle suitable for heavyweight woven fabrics

• Test a size 90/14 or 100/16 needle

• Use strong, high-quality thread

• Select a medium-to-long stitch length after testing

• Stay-stitch curved and bias-cut edges

• Reinforce pockets, closures, and stress points

• Finish raw edges with binding, overlocking, or lining

• Grade bulky seam allowances

• Clip and notch curves carefully

• Use a walking foot if multiple layers shift

• Press with steam and a pressing cloth

• Avoid sliding the iron across the brushed surface

• Allow each pressed section to cool before moving it

Interfacing may be used selectively around collars, facings, cuffs, buttonholes, and closures. Test it first, as the fabric already has significant body.

PRESSING RECOMMENDATIONS

• Press from the reverse side whenever possible

• Use a wool setting only after testing

• Always use a pressing cloth

• Apply steam gently

• Avoid excessive pressure

• Lift and lower the iron instead of sliding it

• Use a tailor’s ham for curved areas

• Use a clapper for clean seams where appropriate

• Allow the fabric to cool completely before handling

Heavy pressure may flatten the brushed woollen surface or create shine marks.

WASH AND CARE

Professional dry cleaning is recommended to preserve the fabric’s structure, dimensions, colour, and surface finish.

• Do not machine wash

• Do not hand wash unless a swatch has been successfully tested

• Do not bleach

• Do not soak

• Do not wring or twist

• Do not tumble dry

• Steam lightly to refresh between wears

• Iron from the reverse side

• Use a pressing cloth

• Avoid excessive heat

• Store clean and completely dry

• Protect from moths during long-term storage

Heat, moisture, and agitation may shrink or felt the wool component and may distort the herringbone structure.

STORAGE

Finished coats and jackets should be stored on broad, supportive hangers to preserve the shoulders.

Fold unconstructed yardage carefully and store it in a dry, ventilated place away from direct sunlight. Avoid long-term compression beneath heavy materials.

Clean the fabric or finished garment before seasonal storage, as moths are particularly attracted to soiled animal fibres.

NATURAL WOOLLEN CHARACTERISTICS

This fabric may naturally display:

• Mild surface fuzzing

• Occasional pilling in high-friction areas

• Small variations in yarn thickness

• Subtle tonal movement

• Minor differences in brushing

• Slight changes in herringbone definition

These characteristics are normal for wool-rich tweed and should not automatically be considered defects.

Pilling that develops through wear can be removed carefully using a suitable wool comb or fabric shaver.

PLEASE NOTE

• The confirmed composition supplied is 80% wool and 20% recycled polyester

• The fabric contains no cotton according to these specifications

• Only use “yak wool” if the type of wool has been verified

• This is not a pure wool fabric

• The fabric is heavyweight and intended for structured garments

• It has no mechanical stretch

• A lining is recommended for most apparel uses

• Separate production batches may vary slightly in colour and texture

• Purchase sufficient fabric for the complete project in one order when exact matching is important

• Charcoal grey may appear warmer or cooler depending on lighting and screen settings

We recommend ordering a swatch before purchasing larger quantities when exact composition, colour, weight, texture, or project suitability is important.