This refined grey cotton corduroy features a fine 20-wale rib that feels clean, modern, and exceptionally versatile.

At approximately 240 GSM, it falls within the light-to-midweight range. The fabric is soft and comfortable enough for shirts, dresses, and relaxed clothing while retaining sufficient body for trousers, overshirts, skirts, and lightweight jackets.

Its neutral grey colour has subtle depth and tonal movement, avoiding the flat appearance sometimes associated with solid-coloured fabrics. Combined with the narrow corduroy ribs, it creates a sophisticated surface suitable for contemporary minimalist garments as well as understated heritage-inspired pieces.

This is a practical everyday corduroy that balances softness, durability, structure, and tactile interest without the bulk of a wide-wale fabric.

WHAT DOES 20-WALE MEAN?

The term “wale” refers to the number of raised corduroy ribs within one inch of fabric.

A 20-wale corduroy has approximately 20 narrow ribs per inch, giving it a fine, closely spaced texture. A higher wale number indicates finer ribs, while a lower number indicates wider, more prominent cords.

Compared with wide-wale corduroy, 20-wale fabric generally feels:

• Smoother and less bulky

• More flexible in garment construction

• Better suited to shirts, dresses, and lighter clothing

• More refined and subtle in appearance

• Easier to incorporate into softly tailored designs

HOW THE FABRIC IS MADE

This fabric is woven from 100% cotton using a cut-pile corduroy construction.

Additional weft yarns are incorporated during weaving to create raised floats across the surface. These floats are then carefully cut to form the lengthwise ribs that define corduroy.

After cutting, the pile is lightly brushed to open and refine the fibres, creating a soft, velvety surface. The cloth is then piece-dyed to achieve its even grey colour while preserving the natural character of the cotton.

The raised ribs run lengthwise and create a directional surface known as nap. This direction must be considered carefully when cutting and sewing.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS

Fabric: Fine-Wale Cotton Corduroy

Fibre Content: 100% cotton

Construction: Woven cut-pile corduroy

Wale Count: Approximately 20 ribs per inch

Width: Approximately 58 inches / 147 cm

Weight: Approximately 240 GSM

Weight Class: Light to midweight

Colour: Grey

Dyeing Method: Piece-dyed

Surface: Fine, narrow ribs with a lightly brushed pile

Handfeel: Soft, dry, and gently velvety

Drape: Pliant with controlled structure

Opacity: Fully opaque

Stretch: None; stable, non-elastic construction

Pile Direction: One-way lengthwise nap

Finish: Brushed pile

End-Use Category: Apparel, accessories, and light home textiles

HANDFEEL AND DRAPE

Handfeel: Soft, fine, and lightly velvety

Surface: Closely spaced ribs with clean cotton texture between the cords

Drape: Pliant yet composed

Body: Light enough for comfortable garments but stable enough to hold shape

Warmth: Light to moderate

Texture: More refined and less bulky than wide-wale corduroy

The fabric moves comfortably while retaining a clean silhouette. It has enough softness for shirts, dresses, and relaxed pants, while its stable woven construction supports collars, pockets, waistbands, and softly structured outer layers.

NAP AND COLOUR DIRECTION

Corduroy has a directional pile, meaning the fabric can appear lighter or darker depending on which way the ribs and pile face.

When the nap runs downward, the surface may appear slightly lighter and smoother. When it runs upward, the colour may appear deeper and the pile may feel richer.

There is no single mandatory direction, but every garment piece should be cut with the nap facing consistently. Mixing directions can create visible colour differences in the finished garment.

Before cutting, view the fabric from both directions under natural light and choose the appearance you prefer.

IDEAL USES

• Shirts and button-down tops

• Overshirts and shackets

• Lightweight jackets

• Dresses and tunics

• Skirts and pinafores

• Tailored trousers

• Relaxed pants

• Shorts

• Vests and waistcoats

• Children’s clothing

• Caps and soft hats

• Tote bags and pouches

• Textile accessories

• Cushion covers

• Light decorative home accents

This is a stable woven fabric without mechanical stretch. It is not recommended for patterns that depend on elasticity unless sufficient ease, shaping, and closures are incorporated.

PATTERN PLACEMENT AND CUTTING

Because this fabric has a one-way nap, it may require more yardage than a comparable non-directional cloth.

• Use a one-way pattern layout

• Keep every garment piece facing the same direction

• Mark the chosen nap direction before cutting

• Cut pieces in a single layer when accuracy is important

• Avoid rotating pieces to conserve fabric

• Check that collars, cuffs, pockets, and facings follow the intended direction

• Purchase additional yardage for nap placement and matching

• Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter

Cutting all pieces consistently prevents unintended changes in colour and texture across the finished garment.

SEWING RECOMMENDATIONS

• Pre-wash the fabric before cutting

• Test shrinkage using a measured swatch

• Use a universal or sharp needle suitable for midweight woven cotton

• Test a size 80/12 or 90/14 needle

• Use good-quality cotton or polyester thread

• Select a medium stitch length after testing

• Stay-stitch curved and bias-cut edges

• Baste or use a walking foot if the layers shift

• Reduce presser-foot pressure if the pile becomes marked

• Avoid excessive backstitching in visible areas

• Grade bulky seam allowances

• Finish raw edges with overlocking, binding, or enclosed seams

• Use lightweight or medium-weight interfacing where needed

• Remove loose pile fibres from cut edges before sewing

• Clean the sewing machine regularly, as cut pile may produce lint

A lining may be added to jackets, skirts, trousers, or bags for greater stability and a cleaner interior.

PRESSING RECOMMENDATIONS

Corduroy should be pressed carefully to avoid flattening or marking its raised ribs.

• Press from the reverse side whenever possible

• Use low-to-moderate heat

• Place a thick towel beneath the pile

• Use a pressing cloth

• Apply steam gently

• Avoid sliding the iron across the surface

• Do not press heavily along seam allowances

• Use the tip of the iron for precise areas

• Allow the fabric to cool before moving it

A velvet or needle board is ideal when available, as it supports the pile while the fabric is being pressed.

WASH AND CARE

• Pre-washing is recommended

• Hand wash or machine wash on a cold, gentle cycle

• Turn finished garments inside out before washing

• Fasten buttons and zips before washing

• Wash separately for the first few washes

• Wash with similar colours

• Use a mild, pH-neutral detergent

• Do not bleach

• Avoid harsh fabric softeners

• Do not soak for prolonged periods

• Avoid wringing or twisting

• Line dry in the shade

• Smooth the ribs gently while damp

• Avoid tumble drying to minimise shrinkage and pile damage

• Steam lightly after drying if required

• Iron from the reverse side on low heat

Some colour release may occur during the first few washes. This is normal for piece-dyed cotton and should gradually reduce.

PLEASE NOTE

• Corduroy has a directional nap and must be cut using a one-way layout

• The fabric may appear lighter or darker when viewed from different directions

• The fabric contains no elastane and has no mechanical stretch

• Natural cotton may shrink or relax after washing

• Pre-washing and testing a measured swatch are strongly recommended

• Mild pile flattening may occur in areas exposed to pressure or repeated friction

• Some lint shedding may occur during cutting and initial use

• Small variations in rib spacing, pile height, width, and colour may occur

• Separate production batches may vary slightly in shade

• Purchase sufficient fabric for the complete project in one order when exact matching is important

• Colour may appear different depending on lighting and screen settings

We recommend ordering a swatch before purchasing larger quantities when exact colour, rib scale, weight, texture, or drape is important for your project.